Una fiesta sin descanso - Carnaval

                Seeing as I’m still trying to catch up on sleep I can’t even begin to describe Cadiz and Carnaval.  For starters, I would love to return to Cadiz without the madness as it was a BEAUTIFUL city and right along the ocean. 

                However, this was not the first impression I got when I stepped off the bus into a mix of people dressed up by the hundreds loitering the streets.  There were groups of costumes up to 20+ people strong.  Beers and other alcoholic beverages were being carried around the streets in plain sight.  My friend and I were actually staying in a town an hour or so away called Chipiona.  But we got off the bus with some people staying in Cadiz to grab a coffee and some food before heading back on the bus to our final destination.  We soon found out that cafés were not serving coffee but only alcoholic beverages, more or less.  Hence our coffee turned into beers and tapas.  During this time we also saw many face painted people dancing in a drunken state around the streets.  Quite amusing.  

                We arrived in Chipiona during the early evening (to Spaniards, the afternoon).  It was a very cute little town set up along the ocean as well, which we did not see until the following day.  That night we hung out, figured out costumes and chatted about the upcoming events of Carnaval.  The following morning we headed into town to grab food and drinks for that evening as well as some tapas.  We also managed to head to the ocean side where the 3^rd largest lighthouse in Spain is located.   

 Chipiona

Lighthouse!

It was also a breathtaking view and I wanted to spend hours there but time was ticking and we had to make the bus to Cadiz and dress in our costumes.   My friends Ashlee and Emily were Indians, I was a soccer play (of Spain … I thought it might be a bad idea to write “Team America” on my shirt), and then my roommate and a group of his friends were Oompa Loompa’s  (Charlie and the Chocolate Factory).   

Soccer Player Julie

 Just 3 of the 12 Oompa Loompa's

We stepped off the bus once again into herds of people dressed in costumes.  We dropped our stuff off at a friend’s place and began the party.  The night was crazy!  So many costumes, awesome atmosphere but lots of streets smelling of urine!  We had a good time dancing the night away … perhaps a little too much as we missed our bus the next morning. 

                Sunday I toured the city trying to find us a way back to Vera.  Eventually we got a bus that evening at 9pm to Granada and a friend was going to take us the following morning back to Vera, where he also worked.  Hence we spent the day wandering around Cadiz again and seeing other costumes and floats. 

 Float

 I liked the Pirate!

 First place float!

  It rained that day so it was pretty gross outside.  We then headed to Granada and arrived at 1:30am.  We wandered across the city and hung out in the freezing cold for the next 7 hours until 8am.  I don’t think I have ever shivered so much as I did then.  Now my body aches from lack of sleep and shivering.

                It was a crazy time and the costumes definitely are amazing and people go all out!  It’s like Mardi Gras (I’m assuming) and Halloween times a billion!  I would love to return to Cadiz and see the city as the sights of the ocean were breathtaking.  Next weekend, I am off to Valencia for Las Fallas, another festival.  

Besito!

Julie 

Dia de Andalucia y Granada

Día de Andalucía (February 28^th) and Día de Docente are two holidays that just occurred in Spain.  My school has been in preparation for Día de Andalucía for a few weeks now.  Murals have been put up, students have been making arts and crafts surrounding this holiday and the mother’s came in to give us all a taste of Andalucía.  Our school was decorated with the green and white flag of Andalucía parading the halls in streamers, as well as a fan mural with all the eight provinces in Andalucía. 

  My school celebrated this holiday (along with many other schools all over Andalucía) the Friday before Día de Andalucía with and freshly squeezed orange juice. The toast also had a thin layer of olive oil or freshly prepared tomato spread.  All of these elements are natural to Andalucía and kind of like “la comida de Andalucía” (the food of Andalucía).  One of my teachers proceeded to ask me what food was associated with my home town and I stared in awe and said Chicago Style Pizza?  Haha.  I could not tell you what the food of Illinois is.  How about the State bird?  Enough with being sidetracked but … not only was the school decorated, but students and teachers dressed up in typical fashion with flamenco dresses and suits.  I went a little camera happy snapping pictures of all the 4 years old in their flamenco dresses dancing around during recreo (recess). 

 I think she was scared of me :-) But so cute!

 Dancing

 Mother and Son

Directly after school, my friend Emily and I got a ride to Granada by one of our teachers.  He was going to drop us off at the town past Granada because he was on a time crunch to get to his home town which was still another 2 ½ hour drive.  However … being dropped off on the middle of the highway was not exactly my cup of tea.  “I’m going this way and you guys just cross the bridge … I’m not sure where the bus is but ask around.”  Yes, Emily and I were on the highway in Santa Fe.  Well … we picked up our stuff and headed to across the bridge that ran over the highway.  We stared at this bus stop that looked deserted like the rest of the town because nothing was open since it was “siesta” time.  Great, just our luck.  Thankfully a nice old woman crossed the bridge soon after and we asked her how to get to Granada.  She was heading the same way, and so we walked and talked until we got to the station.  She was very charming.  As we also had no idea where to go when we got off, she led us in the right direction before heading to on her way.  I have learned that the people in Spain are always willing to help.  It took us about an hour and a half to find out hostel which was located in the middle of twisty streets, called Oasis Backpackers, and it was literally an oasis.  The night we wandered around with a girl that lives in Granada and had a bunch of great tapas.  Like Almería, in Granada you get a free tapa with your “cerveza” but this time the choice is theirs and you do not get to choose your tapa. If you aren’t a picky eater, like me, than this is no problem.  Even vegetarians can ask for a vegetarian tapa.  However, if you’re not so keen on food surprises than this might not be great the best choice for you.  Among some of the tapas we ate were montaditos (small sandwiches), olives, Chinese, chickpea salad, cous cous salad and others.  They were all delicious and I LOVED the Chinese food seeing as it has been over six months since I have last tasted it.  

The following day we headed to La Alhambra … or so we thought.  We managed to get half way up this dirt path until the Alhambra was behind us and I thought it would be best to ask if we were heading in the right direction.  As we only saw one other couple walking along this “road” we asked and they laughed …. We were in the exact opposite of where we needed to be for the Entrance.  Since we were supposed to be there an hour ahead of time and that was at that moment, we decided to hop on a bus in hopes of getting there faster.  After taking a “vuelta” (circle) around the city, we arrived at La Alhambra.  There was a huge line and tickets were sold out but luckily we had reserved them a day ahead of time.  We passed right through and entered.  We got a little lost as we were supposed to be at the Palace at four but because we were late we were able to bypass the line and go right in … so when they say be there an hour ahead of time, they really mean get their late so you can bypass everyone and not stand in line.  Haha. 

 Palace

 Arabic and the little detail all over!

 Alhambra at Night

We toured the Palace where there was a lot of great architecture and design.  At this moment I wish I understood Arabic as there were so many Arabic inscriptions all over the buildings and into the design but I had no idea what they were saying.  However it was great to see the Alhambra and over look upon the city of Granada. 

 Alhambra at night

Granada

After finishing up the Alhambra, we headed back in the direction of the hostel for some food … aka tapas. One of the girls I was with got the stomach flu so she headed back to the hostel and me and the other girl meandered around the Albycin, which is an old neighborhood in Granada.  We also went to a Tetería for some fresh tea.  It was delicious!  Afterwards we headed back to check on our friend and shower up before dinner.  After looking for a Sushi place for over an hour in an area that was recommended, we gave up and went to one by the hostal.  It was AMAZING to have sushi after such a long time!  We then went to get more olive tapas. 

Then next day we were going to go skiing but we didn’t think the girl that was sick (who has never skied before) would have enough energy and thus we once again walked around and shopped for goodies.  I got a bunch of tea from Morocco, jewelry and a skirt.  Then once again our food consisted of tapas.  We had a variety and all were great!  We soon found out that we would not be able to go skiing Monday either because the bus from the ski hill would not get us back to Granada in time to catch our bus back home.  Sad times for Julie.  The next day we went to Parque de las Ciencias before headed home to Vera.

 The closest I got to the Sierra Nevada

 At a park at the top of Granada

 Butterfly exhibit at Parque de las Ciencias

 Birds of Prey exhibit

 My reaction when I saw grass for the first time in six months ... I didn't want to leave

            Now as the week is already half gone, I am heading to Cadiz this weekend (like half of Spain) to celebrate Carnival.  Apparently it is “una fiesta sin descanso”.  Hope all is well!

Besos,

Julie      

  

A glimpse of the sky of Vera at sunset.

The Culture of Spain

As I woke up this morning after a lazy Sunday to the sound of the wind howling, I realized it was that dreaded holiday … Valentine’s Day.  Here in Spain it is celebrated with more intensely focused on lovers.  This day is for people and their significant others, not for friends and family as it is celebrated in the US.  They have however adapted to the US practice in the classroom as students put Valentines into a box and they later get passed around.  And if you are in love, one is supposed to wear red on Valentine’s Day while peers as them questions about this person and who they are.

I was later called into school because there was a “comida” (food) being held at the school.   I arrived after hours to help set up.  We had 3 types of empanadas con carne, tortilla de patata, ajo (alioli, garlicy mayo), pan (bread), salchichas (sausage), albóndigas (meatballs), conejo (rabbit) and a million different types of dessert.  They don’t joke around when it comes to homemade food, lunch and all the teachers together.  And of course there was wine and beer as well.  I probably ate my body weight in food!  It was all SOOOOO good and I didn’t want to stop!  I eventually started asking everyone for their recipe’s!  After eating a lot and drinking, many of the teachers were quite merry and thus they decided to smoke in the classroom with the windows up.  And our director was the one that suggested this.  I was quite amused.  After this we started playing some games.  It was fun and there were lots of good laughs.  Me and another American are always called the Americans (duh!) and then all the teachers start breaking out into the chorus of this song called “Papa Americano”.  If you're interested, here is the song.

However, I suppose not all is dandy on this holiday, as I also woke up to the bells ringing in a morbid tone from the church.  As I have recently learned, when someone dies in Vera the bells ring from the church in a very gruesome tone.  There have been surprisingly three deaths in the past two weeks, one of which was a teacher’s father.  The bells ring and the car carrying the coffin drives through to Plaza Mayor with a procession of people walking behind.  Four people carry the coffin into the church  and I assume then they have visitation for everyone and then visitation for just the family.  However it is very brief and they go to the cemetery no more than an hour later. 

Anywho … That has been my adventures for the last two weeks or so.  We also ventured to the beach last week however it was nowhere near time for a bathing suit.  I sat there in a fleece and a vest picking up sea shells and enjoying the sea.  However I was told that it will be bathing weather in March!  Well, I hear there is also warmer weather in the US so I hope that everyone survived the blizzard and is enjoying the warmer weather. 

Besos! 

Surviving the winter and honoring the animals!

I may live in Spain, but let me tell you it’s not always warm and dandy.  In fact, the temperature of my body and the inside of my apartment has been the hardest part of Spain yet.  That’s what brings on the homesickness and culture shock.  My question is, how do Spaniards live without calefacción (heat)?  They stay bundled up in heavy coats and scarf’s until April yet are fine with enduring the freezing temperatures inside; while us Americans are out in t-shirts in January and February but are barely surviving the insides of our home and schools.  And I come from the windy city where it doesn’t compare to the wind endured in Vera.  

            They have a normally mild winter with temperatures between 45-65 degrees.  However, these homes were not made for winter period, but extremely high temperatures that arrive in the summer.  The tile floors and stucco walls are like ice.  There is no insulation in any of the buildings.  The temperature of the inside is probably around 10 degrees colder than outside.   Of course this apartment would be great in the summer because it is supposed to allow for the apartment to be cooler than outside in the 100 degree weather.  Perhaps that is why I have only met a few neighbors and the rest do not show up until the summer.  Anyways,  I’m always wearing multiple layers of my down winter coat to stay warm.  I am often too cold at night to read as I do not want my fingers to come out from under the covers.  And I often wake up with a red and frozen nose.  We survive with one small electric heater that sits in our living room.  Who knows what the cost of turning it on all day is.  It helps if it has been on all day.  I also sit on my computer all day just to enjoy the warmth that it gives off on my lap.  There is also the plus of putting the heater in the bathroom before I shower and then I am not forcing myself out into the frigid air after the hot water is turned off.   However, as weird as this may sound, I have discovered that the fewer amount of cloths you have on (i.e. not multiple layers, just one) while you sleep, the more body heat is retained under the covers.  The only hard part is getting to take off all the layers, dive into bed and wait for the blankets and sheets to stop feeling like ice.  The big downer is that there is not even heat at school, meaning that I have no relief from the cold unless I want to lay in bed all day.  This has been the hardest part is to have my body feel like it’s freezing for days on end.  Appreciate the heat you have in the subzero temperatures that are plummeting the USA.  

            On top of the cold weather and my lack of warm cloths, my room has been infested with mold.  I first noticed it in November and promptly cleaned it with bleach, detergent and warm water.  Then it came back after winter vacation but in a different spot, and I recently found some more.  I just hope I do not have health problems associated with this.  I have informed my landlord but sometimes there is still a language barrier …. But hopefully he will do something about it.  I was going to purchase a dehumidifier because that is probably the primary cause however I soon found out that they cost 140 euros ($190).  Crazy, I know!  So … I simply have resorted to opening my windows during the day with my door shut to allow for air circulation.  I also spend more time now in the living room with the heater.  

            Hence, that has been my winter experience here in Spain.  It is still cold, and if it is not cold outside then expect it to be colder inside.  I am anxiously awaiting the rise in temperature so that I can soak up the sun and not be inside this cold apartment. 

            Moving onto my recent discovery of today’s (January 30^th) events.  I started my day out by reading in the Plaza outside my house to enjoy the warm rays of the sun, when I heard drums and the sound of many people talking.  I decided to meander down to Plaza Mayor and check out all the chaos and commotion.  I soon discovered it was “el día de San Antón—El patron de los animals”.  He is the saint of all the animals.     

  There were tons of animals, from dogs to cats in strollers to rabbits to guinea pigs to birds and even a horse (which I probably shouldn’t find uncommon at all since they seem to always be around at town fairs)!  Although I didn’t pet any animals, it was so nice to see so many different types of animals/dogs. 

 The mini horse

 Owner with dog in stroller

 Guinea Pigs

 Some of the dogs

  In the procession there were two bands leading a big float with whom I am assuming was San Antón.  In the bands were also two of my teachers from school, Pedro and Pepe. 

 Pepe

 Pedro was in the funny band playing the Cymbal

As the procession reentered into Plaza Mayor, I noticed everyone walking towards the Ayuntamiento (city hall).  I was being stubborn and decided to stay where I was because I wanted to get pictures … I soon discovered that the mayor and other people started throwing rings of bread, toys, candy and other gadgets from the second floor of the city hall!  I quickly ran over and took part in the raising of my hands to catch anything that came my way, also realizing that I may get wacked on the head by oncoming toys.   

I got a ring of bread, some candy and a G.I. Joe which I gave away to one of my students.  I then came back to my piso and had a big smile on my face as I recapped what just happened.  All my favorite things in one place:  Over 50 animals in the Plaza, candy flying through the air and the honoring of animals.  It was a great way to start my Sunday and to experience the saints in my pueblo.  

            This has been my adventures of January 30^th and the experience I have had during the winter in Spain.  I hope you all continue to enjoy my entries.  My next planned trip is to Granada at the end of February to go snowboarding on the Sierra Nevada.  I may try for another small trip around Andalucia or to Valencia before then, but I will keep you all posted!  Once again, I’m jealous of those with heat. 

Un besito,

Julie